Door Sweep Replacement

Front Door Sweep – Before the Cold Comes.


The cold weather is coming if you live in a Northern State like me. As I looked towards my front door, I noticed that the seal under it has weathered to the point of not creating a good seal.  On top of that, the rubber sweep has cracked and has bent in half.

Every time I open my front door, the bent sweep would catch on the small rug in front of the door. This, obviously, is not good. It’s time to repair this ten year old door and replace the door sweep with a new one.

I headed to my local hardware store to find a new sweep to attach to my front door.


 
I’m looking for something that can attach right to the bottom of the door and become a weather tight seal that closes off the gap between the bottom of the door and the threshold.
I headed to my local hardware store to find a vinyl sweep in a white color that would match my painted steel door.  I found one that looked like it would be simple enough to install.
Remove the Door from the Hinges
1.  Remove the Door:

There are several ways to remove your door. One way is the simple way. Pop the pins out of the hinges.  A screw driver and a hammer should be able to help with this.  I however, had a great deal of difficulty removing the door by the hinges.  I took it to plan B.

I had to unscrew the hinge plate from the door itself. This is obviously not the best way to do it, but I really had no choice.  Removing the door is a two person job so make sure you have someone there to help.

2.  Problem Revealed:

Once the door is removed, turn it on its side to reveal the damaged part.  You can see the rubber piece is coming off of the bottom of the door.  The plastic that snaps into the underside of the door has been bent and no longer stays in place. Because of this, cold air and insects were making themselves welcome in my foyer any time they pleased.

Damaged Door Sweep
Remove the old door sweep
3.  Remove the Old Door Sweep:

Now that I can see the extent of the damage, it is clear that we need to remove the old, broken sweep.  This pulls off rather easily, especially since it is already cracked.

I just grabbed the loose end, and pulled the whole thing off. Once you get it off, you can clean out the bottom of the door. I had some dirt and spiderwebs caught in there.

4.  Get the Sweep:

With the door prepped to receive the new sweep, you can get ready to attach it.  Prop up the door so you can access the inside face of it.

Remove the sweep from its plastic wrapping.  You will need a drill to create holes for the included screws. If the sweep is longer than the door width, we’ll cut the piece to fit later.

Measure the Sweep
Drill the holes

5.  Attach the Sweep:

Place the sweep on the end of the door and you can line up one end so that it is even with the edge of the door.

Take a drill with a small bit and drill holes in the door at each of the holes on the sweep.

6.  Finishing the Edge:

Once you’ve drilled all the holes into the door, you can screw in all of the screws to secure the sweep to the door.  The front side of the sweep should snap into the door to secure the front of the sweep.

In this case, you notice that the sweep extends about a 3/4" past the edge of the door.

Finished Screwing in the Screws
Saw and File the Edge of the Sweep
7.  The Proper Width:

To finish the edge, I simply took a saw and gently cut off the overlapping edge of the sweep.  I took a small grained piece of sandpaper to clean up the edge since the vinyl will fray a bit when you cut it.

Once this piece matches the door exactly, it will fit securely on the door and easily snap into place in the front.

7.  Re-attach your Door:

Once the door is repaired, all you have to do is re-attach it. Again, this is a two person job, so have someone hold the door in place while you insert the pins back in the hinges…In my case, it was me screwing the screws back into the hinge plate.

You can now close your door.

The finished door

The new sweep is definately keeping out the bugs and the cold air. I added some extra weather stripping pads to the edges of the jambs on each side.  This relatively simple door fix should help decrease the heating bills this winter, because cold air was just flowing under the door last year. 


Repair the Sweep at your Front Door Threshold.


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Toilet Lever Repair

Toilet Lever Repair – Flush you problems away.


The other day I think I pressed the toilet handle a little too hard.  There was a little more give than normal.  The toilet flushed, but it felt weak and the handle felt loose. Shoot! Now the toilet is broken.

Once the toilet tank had filled itself up again, I tried to flush it again to test the lever.  I could tell something was wrong with it.

I lifted the lid on the tank to take a look. Yep, broken. I’m going to have to repair this thing. Below is a step by step method of repairing the toilet flushing lever. This is a relatively simple and inexensive repair.


 
Remove Toilet Cover
1.  Remove the Cover:

Simple enough, right…you have to take off the lid of the tank to access the lever.  This is the simplest part of the repair.

By removing the cover it highlighted the problem of why the toilet won’t flush anymore. I made a quick visit to the local Home Depot to pick up a new Toilet Lever. I found it in the plumbing aisle near the toilet accessories.

2.  Problem Revealed:

You can see in the photo on the right that there is a tiny crack in the plastic lever part that attached to the flush handle.  Because of this crack, the bolt spins in the lever instead of lifting when the flush handle is pressed.

This lever connects to a chain, which connects to the rubber flapper that keeps the water in the tank until flushed. If the lever doesn’t lift, the flapper won’t open.

Proof of a Broken Lever
Remove Toilet Cover
3.  Remove the Lever:

The first real step to this repair is to take the lever and flush handle off.  The lever is connected to the flush handle with a plastic nut.

The nut should come off easily, but if it doesn’t, a crescent wrench should provide all the leverage you need to turn it. Once, the nut is loose, slide it along the lever and (temporarily) unhook the chain to get it off.

4.  Preserve Chain:

Once you remove the handle and lever, you will have the lever connected to the chain.

Keep the lever connected to the chain until you are ready to switch it to the new lever; tape it to the side of the tank. That way you won’t have to fish it out later.

The next step is attaching the new lever to the toilet tank.

Don't lose the chain
Remove Toilet Cover

5.  Get your Replacement Lever:

The lever comes with a handle so be sure to find a handle that has a design that you like. The levers I saw on the shelf were priced anywhere from $5-$15. You’re probably better off getting one that is in the middle on price. The cheap ones are cheaply made.

I selected a metal lever over plastic because its less likely to break over time.

6.  Attach the Lever:

After you remove the lever from the package, unscrew the nut from the back of the handle. You should be able to get it off with your fingers.

Slide the lever through the hole on the tank. It slides through very easily.

Remove Toilet Cover
Remove Toilet Cover
7.  Tighten the nut:

Once you have the lever and handle in place, you can slide the nut over the lever and back towards the tank.

Hold the handle in place with one hand and tighten the nut with your fingers. You should be able to get it snug enough without having to use a wrench.

7.  Attach the Chain:

Once the lever is securely attached, you can retrieve your old lever (which should still be attached to the chain) and unhook the chain from it.

Discard the old, broken, crappy lever and hook the chain into one of the holes at the end of the new lever. The hole you chose is dependent on the length of the chain.

Remove Toilet Cover

Once the chain is attached, give the old handle a press.  If it flushes properly, you’ve just repaired your toilet, if it doesn’t, follow steps 1-7 again.  Put the lid back on the tank, clean up your mess and you’re ready for action! 


Repair Your Toilet Flush Lever Yourself.


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It Came from Above

Ceiling Damage from a Leaking Toilet Above


Continued from Wax Ring Replacement Post:




The Drama unfolds.  As the World Turns and my wax ring replacement has stopped the Toilet from leaking, I can now proceed to fix the kitchen ceiling below. Again, not being a handyman, my friend John made some suggestions04-HolesDrilled .  First, he suggested I drill some holes into the brown spot to let some air get up into the ceiling and let the spot fully dry. So I did that. I took my handy piece-of-crap drill and made some holes into the brown spot.

I set up a fan so that I could blow air directly up into the holes and help evaporate any remaining moisture. I also sprayed some Lysol onto the spot to kill any mold or bacteria that might have started spawning there. After about 8 hours of the fan running, I removed the fan and let the area dry for a few more days on its own.

The next thing I did, was to spray a stain covering and mildew resistant paint called Kilz onto the spot.  I set up all a bunch of newspaper to catch any falling spray and put a thin layer of paint over the spot.  I used an oil-based spray paint in the odorless formula.  I sprayed on one thin coat, and let it dry.  An hour later, I sprayed on a second coat, and let it dry.  I did this about 4 times over a 4 hour period.  That left me with a clean white ceiling with a bunch of holes drilled in it.

05-PatchProductsNext thing I did was to patch the holes with a Spackling compound called DryDex. I like this product because it goes on pink and turns white as it drys. I layered it on over all the holes with a plastic putty knife and let it dry.

When the DryDex fully dryed overnight, I sanded it down with a foam sanding pad. Once the surface was smooth, I took a mini vacuum to the area to remove any miscellaneous dust from sanding the ceiling. I then put on a final coat of the Kilz spray paint and let that dry.

  06-CeilingPatchThe last step was to put on a coat of paint to match my ceiling paint. A nice eggshell white over the Kilz. I can now stand on the floor and enjoy the fact that what I thought was a major problem was actually relatively easy to fix. It took some time and a bunch of steps. The result is that I now love standing in my kitchen knowing I fixed something that I dreaded a few weeks earlier.  It didn’t cost that much money.  I think I paid less than 20 dollars for everything I needed to buy to fix the toilet and ceiling. 

Below I show some before and after pictures of the repair job I did.  There needs to be at least one more coat of paint on the patch to really clean it up.  Actually the whole kitchen ceiling really needs to be painted, so I may wait and do it all at once.

07-CeilingBefore
Before
08-CeilingAfter
After

I’m going to be keeping an eye on the ceiling to make sure the toilet leaking above was from an old and inadequate wax ring rather than a cracked pipe.  So far, so good.  I’m very pleased with the result.


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Leaky Toilet Tribulations

Wax Ring Replacement




 If you’re like me and not really a handyman, you dread situations like this.  Situations in your home where things start breaking, getting damaged and worn down as they always do over time.  I start going through the thought process in my head of, "how am I going to deal with this situation."  And the first thing I end up doing is procrastinating.  I’m really good at that.  Maybe the spot will disappear on is own.  I mean, it showed up on its own.

I waited months.  I took pictures of the ceiling spot so I could compare images over time; seeing if the problem was growing worse.  One day, I even climbed up on the counter to touch the spot so I could see if the spot was wet.  It was!  That means that water is probably still leaking up there.  I was still hoping the problem would heal itself and go away so I wouldn’t have to deal with it.  It didn’t. 01-CeilingStain
Turns out that the spot on the ceiling in the kitchen is right below the toilet in the master bathroom.

Ok, I have a source of water located.  Now what is the problem?  My first thought was that a tiny leak in the drain PVC was causing water to slowly drip on the drywall below every time the toilet was flushed.  If this was the problem, I started to think, "how the heck am I going to get a drain pipe fixed that is in the ceiling."  They’ll have to tear the whole ceiling down and do all sorts of shennanigins to fix that bad boy. And on top if it, it will cost me a fortune and be a huge inconvenience.

But a my friend John, who is a lot more handy around the house than I, told me that its not really likely that the PVC drain pipe cracked.  The more likely issue is that the wax ring below the toilet may be worn and needs replacing.  Wax Ring?  What the sam hell is that?  I’ve never heard of or seen a wax ring, and if I had, it wouldn’t have dawned on me that it was a part of a toilet.  Anyway, a quick YouTube search pointed me to some videos on how to replace a wax ring.  I watched some of these and it looked relatively easy to fix this, if it was the problem.
 
02-Toilet
So, I decided to remove the toilet and see if the wax ring was indeed damaged.  I couldn’t tell if there was any damage to the ring, but the area around the Water Closet drain seemed slightly damp. I removed the wax ring because once you pull up the toilet, it pulls up some of the wax too.

So, now I have to go to the local big box hardware store and buy a new wax ring.  When I get there, there are all kinds of rings…what now?  Well, I bought three of them, figuring I would return the ones I didn’t need.  One was like the one I removed from the toilet, the second was taller and thicker in case the drain pipe was lower, and the third had a metal reinforcing ring around it in case of building movement.  I guess this kind is best used in office buildings.03-WaxRing

The first wax ring I tried was the ring similar to the one I was replacing.  I put it down in the drain and gently pushed.  It didn’t feel like there was any contact.  I lifted the toilet up again, and didn’t see any smushing of the wax.  I then lifted up the ring and put down wax ring number 2.  This was a thicker and taller ring.  I put the toilet on top and felt is smash down.  It felt as if there was much more contact, thus sealing the gap between the toilet and the drain pipe.

I tightened the screws to secure the toilet and now I just had to hope that I solved my leaking toilet problem.  Weeks later, no further water damage as far as I could tell.  With the toilet repaired, I next needed to figure out how to repair the ceiling in the kitchen below.  The water damage left that ugly brown spot and I don’t think just painting over it would be sufficient.

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